Repetier Firmware upload to Hyperion i3 Forge 3D Printer

As my second 3D printer I recently bought a Hyperion Forge 3D (Wanhao Duplicator i3 copy) for CHF 399.-

After I made several prints I really wanted to update the running firmware of this printer. I knew some version of Repetier was running on it but I had no clue what version.

I've tried to upload the bootloader with my USBtyniISP but the ATmega 1284P is not supported. So I just used my Arduino Uno instead.

This is a short step by step instruction of how to upload a bootloader to your Melzi board. After that we will load a fresh repetier firmware onto the Melzi. And as an option I will show you how to add a very useful switch for the board power.

1. Make sure you have all tools.

1. Allen keys
2. Laptop
3. USB-B cable (for Arduino Uno)
4. USB mini cable (for Melzi)
5. Arduino Uno
6. Jumper wires
7. Micro switch (optional)
8. Servo cable (optional)
9. Soldering iron (optional)
10. Hot glue gun (optional)

2. Disconnect the 3D printer from power supply and open the case. Unscrew the 4 bolts on the back and the 7 on the bottom (leave the "inner" 4 bolts as they hold the power supply).

3. Slide off the top case (to the front) and change the jumper PWR - SEL from VRES to USB. This way the Melzi will be powered by USB.

4. Open the Arduino IDE and connect your Uno with the USB cable. Open the sketch "ArduinoISP". Choose the board "Arduino Uno", the correct port of the UNO and upload the sketch.

5. Now the UNO can act as a ISP programmer for the Melzi board. Connect the UNO pins with the jumper cables to the ISP port of the Melzi board.

Arduino Pin --- Melzi ISP Pin

10 --- RES

11 --- MOSI

12 --- MISO

13 --- SCK

5V --- 5V

GND --- GND

6. Download the Sanguino board library from here: http://lauszus.com/Sanguino/

7. Connect the Melzi with the USB cable to your computer. The computer must be connected to the Arduino and the Melzi at the same time.

8. In the Arduino IDE choose the following:

• Board: "Sanguino" 
• Processor: ATmega1284P (16MHz)
• Port: Choose the port of the Arduino (not the Melzi, as this will not work)
• Programmer: Arduino as ISP

Then click on "burn bootloader" The LED on the Arduino will blink a few times.

Wait for the confirmation message in the IDE.

9. The bootloader is now on the Melzi, so we don't need the Uno anymore. Disconnect the jumper wires.

10. For the firmware you can use whatever you like. I've used a firmware from repetier v0.92.10. I tried to make one from the repetier online configurator but it failed to compile in the Arduino IDE (as of May 08.2017) so I found this firmware made for the Wanhao i3 from a google group. I've changed some parameters to fit my Hyperion Forge 3D 

In Configuration.h change #define GENERIC_THERM1_R2 from 10'000 to 4700

The Forge 3D uses 4700Ohm pullups on the thermistor instead of 10'000Ohm on the Wanhao, this caused my temperature reading to be off by about 50%. So here is my Firmware.

11. OPTIONAL Now we will install the super-convenience-hack for the next time we want to upload a fresh or updated firmware. With this modification you don't have to open the case every time to switch the PWR-SEL from VREG to USB.


12. Prepare the servo connector and the micro switch. Maybe you need some wiring.

13. Fire up your soldering iron and connect the servo connector and the micro switch.

14. Use some shrink tube to cover the connections.

15. Cut out the wire mesh on one of this holes.

16. Fire up your hot glue gun.

17. Glue the micro switch in place.

18. Connect the servo connector to the PWR-SEL pins.

19. Make some label so you know on what setting the switch is.

20. Now you can close the case and never have to open it again for firmware updates :-) If you like some feet for the printer, you can print out my design (then the printer will not stand on the bolts anymore)

21. You now have reached the end of this instruction. I hope you enjoyed it. 

Best regards

Stanley

DIY 3D Printed DJI OSMO Stand and Accessoires

Finally I pulled the trigger and ordered a DJI OSMO 3 axis stabilized cam system.

In my opinion the OSMO is a very nice cam system for about 600$. Firstly I thought i will just use my Gopro Hero and buy a stabilised axis system for it. But I'm glad I didn't! The quality of this system is just outstanding and the integration of the cam within the axis system is just perfect.

The battery lifetime could be better but that is not a big issue for me (I just ordered a second battery for it, after reading about this problem)

One thing that i really missed is the standard tripod screw on the bottom of the handle. When the OSMO is running and I want to place it somewhere it is really difficult, because I don't want to lay it flat down when the motors are running... So i just designed a few different mounts for the different applications.

DJI OSMO Foldable Stand:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1669017

DJI OSMO Manfrotto Tripod adapter mount:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1669230

DJI OSMO Gopro Compatible mount:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1669231

All this mounts are designed by myself with Inventor. You can download the files on thingiverse for free and 3D print them at home.

Stanley

3D Systems iSense 3D Scanner for Iphone 6 Plus unboxing and first scan

Today I received my iSense 3D scanner from 3D Systems.

I tried several things with my Kinect and the Skanect software. The results were not too bad but i wanted something more flexible. The Kinect has to be powered from the power socket all the time so this was like the main reason for this device.

I made a short unboxing video and i downloaded the iSense App from the app store. Here is the unboxing and first scan:

https://youtu.be/if_QquRGQlg

The perfect FPV Backpack Dakine Mission Photo 25L

As I had my birthday yesterday, my lovely girlfriend gave me a new Dakine Mission Photo 25L backpack for my FPV gear. I was using an old tactical backpack but it was way too small for all the gear i have. So I was pretty happy with my gift :)

As soon as I had some time for sure I was filling everything I had inside the new backpack. And I was surprised all my FPV gear fitted in very well.

The design is well thought and the 25 liters of volume (that is what 25L stands for) are just about the perfect size for the average FPV racer.

Find my complete overview here:

https://youtu.be/KTNK8iSGEkI

Pocket C.H.I.P. Unboxing

Today my PocketCHIP arrived! Wohoo 😊

I baked the kickstarter campaign and ordered a PockedCHIP. I really liked the idea of having one Raspberry Pi like pocket PC with integrated keyboard, display and battery.

The CHIP itself is a single board computer running a lighter version of a linux distribution. It has a USB port and an audio jack. The micro USB is used to power it up or charge the battery. One charge should last about 4-5h of computing. There are several GPIO ports where you can connect led's, sensors and so on. The PocketCHIP is open source and the developers want you to hack this thing ;-)

As i don't have any plans how to use this thing right now i just made a unboxing video of it... 

https://youtu.be/7FO51Z3Zfq4

Have a good one!

DIY Pool Noodle FPV Racing Gates

DIY Pool Noodle FPV Racing Gates

As i started flying FPV more often with my friend, we soon wanted some more demanding race tracks. In the cool FPV race videos on youtube they use this racing gates from different companies.

I searched the web for a few nice FPV racing gates, but after reading a few reviews from the quality of different gates I was not sure if i'm ready to spend 40-130 CHF for just one gate...

So i just thought i could make some by myself using the well known and cheaply available pool noodle =)

1. I bought 6 pool noodles for 5 CHF a piece.

2. I searched in the craftsmen shop for a plastic pipe in the right dimension to connect the pool noodles. Unfortunately I could not find something that was in the right dimension. So i just I designed a connector piece to connect two pool noodles together. This will give me a variable height of about 120cm. The second design was a foot piece with 6 holes so i can fix the gate by using some camper nails. As i already own a 3D printer i printed the parts. It was a very long print job, it took about 15h for one set (1 connector and 2 feet)

3. The fit of the connector and the foot part was just right so i could slide the pool noodle in the 3D printed parts.

4. This is the gate standing in my hobby room. Hopefully I can try them this Saturday if they withstand the abuse of real FPV racing =)

5. You can download the .stl files from here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1655811

6. The field-test of the gates was with my friend. You can find the movie here: https://youtu.be/Qq9OgPD4Cco 

Graupner MX-20 Hott turning the ring for balancing transmitter

MX-20 transmitter balancer ring hack

I've just ordered a cnc machined rc transmitter balancer. It turned out that the orientation was 90deg off :-) as i liked the cnc finish of the balancer i just thought i could turn the ring.

So here is a step by step tutorial of how you can turn your ring on a Graupner MX-20. As the other Graupner MX transmitters share more or less the design i believe this should also work for an MX-12/16.

1. Open the battery compartment and take out the battery, take out the six screws holding the transmitter together.

2. Pull the case apart. It should go very easy. Disconnect the antenna and take out the 2 screws holding the antenna module. Flip the antenna module towards the white cable out of the way.

3. Unscrew the 4 tiny screws holding the base board in place. I did this to have a little more room to take out the board under the antenna module i will call this switch board from now.

4. Take out the 4 screws holding the two switches, then unscrew the 2 screws holding the switch board in place.

5. Lift the board a little bit and gently press out the two switches.

6. With the cables connected you cannot take out the switch board completely. But lift it enough so you can loosen the 7mm nut from the ring.

7. Take this ring thing and file a flat surface from about 2mm x 8mm 90 deg from the other flat surfaces.

8. Check the distance of the two surfaces. This should be about 11.5mm.

9. Check the fitment in the transmitter it should be a tight fit, otherwise it could have some play.

10. Once you are happy with the fitment you can assemble the transmitter back together. The procedure is just vice versa. Make sure you don't forget the antenna plug. Now you can mount your transmitter balancer to the transmitter.